sevilla | We Love Tapas

Tío Pepe en Rama 2016

April 15, 2016April 27, 2016 WeLoveTapas

This year’s Bodegas Gonzales Byass tasting event for Tío Pepe en Rama 2016 was held on April 11th (lunes del pescaíto), at the Mercado del Barranco on Seville’s riverside. Although we weren’t too lucky with the weather, with the wind even knocking over a few glasses, master blender (and winemaker poet) Antonio Flores led us on a metaphorical sailing trip down the Guadalquivir river, from Sevilla to Jerez. As we listened to his accounts we sampled the three different sherry wines: Tio Pepe en Rama (fino), Viña AB (amontillado) and Leonor (palo cortado). When you pour the wine, close your eyes, smell the wine and then drink, it shows once again that sherry is not just another white wine, but has a strong connection to the south of Spain, its sunshine, the smell of the sea and the silence inside the bodega. The magic is always there, even when it is raining and the wind is blowing. Catering for the event was supplied by various stalls inside Mercado del Barranco.

Tío Pepe en Rama 2016 was first selected in October from 100 of the best casks from two of the oldest Tío Pepe soleras, Rebollo and Constancia, and finally bottled (16,000 in total) in April from the top 60 out of those initial 100 casks.

A wild unfiltered wine, with all its yeast and organic contribution. Yellow, pale, golden tones, cloudy (yeast in suspension). The nose is pure albariza, salinity, nuts, bakery aromas. Tasty, intense, long, salty and slightly bitter finish. Or as Antonio would say… el sol de Andalucía embotellado (bottled Andalusian sunshine).

You can order Tío Pepe en Rama 2016 from the Gonzalez Byass online store or (in Sevilla) buy it at El Corte Inglés Gourmet Experience Duque.

Antonio Flores with Aldara

Seville | Calvisius Caviar Tasting at Sea Market

April 7, 2016May 2, 2016 WeLoveTapas

We Love Tapas had the opportunity for a visit to the recently opened Sea Market restaurant in the Avenida Eduardo Dato in Seville. We had been invited to attend a tasting of one of the most highly regarded, but possibly least known products of the sea – caviar. The tasting was hosted by Calvisius Caviar, by Export Manager Sara Morales, who began by giving us a masterful tour through the history of caviar and the different kinds of caviar produced under their brand name, which come from various species of sturgeon, before going on to the tasting itself.

We tried four different kinds of caviar, each time being given just a few of the small black eggs that we had to put on the back of our hands until they were the perfect temperature. Then, while we rolled them around in our mouths, Sara explained all the flavours, textures and smells we were eperiencing! After each tasting we were served a perfectly chosen cava from Llopart, to pair with the particular caviar we were tasting.

It was a great introduction to the mysteries of caviar, but there was also a negative side to our experience at Sea Market. It is easy to be impressed when you visit the restaurant, as it is a very chic establishment: everything is what you would expect from a modern restaurant, with an aesthetic and atmosphere that many people are looking for.

But though these things are obviously important, it is also important to take care of other aspects of a business that serves the public, and we were disappointed with the standard of service we received. The serving staff appeared to be lacking in training in how to serve these particular delicacies, although this event must have been an important one for a new restaurant. Recognised brands like Calvisius and Llopart, and the various dishes the chef prepared for us during the tasting, definitely deserved better.

Semana Santa in Seville

March 15, 2016March 18, 2016 WeLoveTapas

Semana Santa (Holy Week) is Spain’s major annual religious extravaganza, but nowhere is it celebrated on a scale, or with such fervour, as in Seville. From Palm Sunday (although because the processional timetable is so full some brotherhoods go out on the preceding Friday and Saturday) through to Resurrection Sunday the city virtually shuts down as the processions make their way to the Cathedral and back again. Even in this day and age, when religious observance is on the decline, the processions still draw substantial crowds, and for many of those taking part, whether as penitents, musicians or officials, Holy Week is the focal point of the year, and huge investments of time, money, and emotion go into making it the spectacle it is.

But what’s it all about? This is actually quite a complex question. The bare bones don’t seem too complicated. The processions are organised by rather more than forty brotherhoods (hermandades or cofradias) attached to the city’s churches and other religious institutions. The order of the processions during the week follows the events of the original, and each procession consists of at least one, usually two (a Christ and a Virgin), and occasionally three pasos (the floats bearing the religious figures), which are carried from their “homes” to the Cathedral to be blessed. The pasos are accompanied by penitents in traditional robes and hoods (every brotherhood has its own colours) to maintain their anonymity, marching bands, and the various officials who control the movement of the procession.

The origins go back to the 16th century, when the earliest, and simpler, processions made their way from Casa Pilatos (Pilate’s house) to the Cruz del Campo, the Cross in the Field (from which local brewer’s Cruzcampo take their name), but from 1604, by order of the Cardinal, they were obliged to pass through the Cathedral. The use of pasos began around the same time, and increased steadily through the 17th century, which was Seville’s Golden Age of artistic patronage. Then as now, the processions were organised by the hermandades, charitable and mutual aid organisations affiliated to particular churches and trades. At a deep level these were ritual expressions of a social solidarity that has not been entirely lost, even in the present day.

costaleros taking a break

The floats are carried by teams of costaleros, who bear the weight on the backs of their necks, protected by a sack or costal wound around the head. Because the costaleros are hidden from view by curtains the floats appear to move by themselves (the costaleros are guided by a capataz with a code of taps with a hammer), often with a swaying motion that makes them seem almost alive. Some of the tight corners in the narrow streets are difficult to negotiate, and the costaleros practice the routes for weeks beforehand.

The floats and figures, some of which are important works of art in their own right, are richly decorated and often decked with flowers and candles. With the solemn files of penitents carrying crosses and long candles, and the distinctive music of the bands, the processions can be quite affecting, even for the non-religious, and this is especially true of the processions that go out overnight on Thursday to pass through the cathedral in the early hours of Good Friday.

chairs stacked in front of La Campana

All the processions pass along the “Sacred Way” as they approach the Cathedral. This runs from La Campana, along Calle Sierpes, through the Plaza San Francisco, and up the Avenida de la Constitución. Terracing with seats (at a price) is provided for the spectators in the last two, and is highly prized for the views of the processions. It is sometimes said there are two types of Sevillanos – those who attend all the processions, and those who leave town for the week.

Not surprisingly with so many people coming into town for the week, hotel and apartment prices increase significantly, so if you’re on any sort of budget and aren’t coming for the religious festival, it may be best to plan your holiday for a different time. As well as that many bars, especially in the centre, will abandon tapas for the week in favour of raciones or a menu del día to improve efficiency.

With that said, however, spring is still the best time to come to Seville, as the weather is usually pleasantly warm and sunny, and the parks and gardens in full bloom. If you’re lucky you may be here when the orange blossom is out, filling the city with its perfume. And Semana Santa in Seville is one of those unique events that you should try to experience once in your life.

photos courtesy of azahar-sevilla.com

Seville Cycling & Tapas Tour

February 15, 2016March 26, 2019 WeLoveTapas

We Love Tapas and ELECMOVE created a very special collaboration a few months ago – the Cycle & Tapas Tour – offering an introduction to Seville on electric bikes followed by a delicious Traditional Tapas Tour. But it was only recently that the WLT Team got together with ELECMOVE to experience the electric bike tour themselves. And the ELECMOVE team also got to sample tasty tapas with us. Really, a match made in heaven.

We met up at ELECMOVE at 10.00 am and our cheerful guide Marie immediately set about getting us set up with out bikes, adjusting seat heights, checking tire pressure, snapping on baskets for those who wanted it. And then we got a quick lesson on how electric bikes work. Pretty easy really.

The route for the Introduction to Seville tour is at least 90% on cycle paths, stopping off at places of interest.

Marie kept asking if we wanted to stop for photos, so…

Here we are in front of the Royal Tabacco Factory where Carmen once rolled cigars on her gypsy thighs…

The WLT chicas replicating the poet Becquer’s three phases of love.

Marie explains Mudejar architecture in Parque María Luísa

Team WLT Sevilla: Delia, Sara, Ania & Aldara

Team ELECMOVE: guides Marie & Juan, owner Sofia

CYCLING & TAPAS TOUR

Seville | Alternative Markets

December 15, 2015March 26, 2019 WeLoveTapas

Alternative shopping

At this time of year with Christmas just around the corner Seville city centre is crowded with shoppers looking for the best presents they can find. But how can we make our loved ones happy while still supporting local businesses? Actually, there are plenty of options and we’ve come up with this little guide to help you.

Craft Markets

Mucho Maske Market
This little craft market started up 9 years ago, and has been held in a variety of locations. This year it’s in the Regina area behind the Metropol Parasol (calle Viriato, 9) from the 17th until the 20th of December and will showcase 19 different brands, including jewellery and wooden toys.

El Butrón Market
El Butrón is a cultural space where artists can meet and display their creations in temporary exhibitions. This is it’s 4th year, and it’s running from the 18th to the 20th of December at calle Butrón, 7, with workshops, music and organic food.

Mercado de Artesanía
Organized by the Federación Artesanal de Sevilla and the City council Seville’s famous annual hadicraft market is already open in Plaza Nueva and will be there until the 5th of January, with a wide range of quality merchandise to choose from.

Shopping by Barrio

Regina Market
The Regina market, actually an association of small local shops in Viriato, Jerónimo Hernández and Amparo streets, offers an individualistic style of shopping, with a mix of the moderni and the traditional. Some of the shops you can explore to find your presents are Un gato en bicicleta, La seta coqueta, Wabi Sabi, Un Globo or Pai-pai shop.

Soho Benita
On the southern side of Las Setas we find another big area full of small fashion, design, and art places, together with some of the bars we visit in our tours and recommend in this blog. Spend a day in this neighbourhood and discover how Seville can be traditional and surprising at the same time. Soho Benita shops are Artefactum, Delimbo, Eirín, Florypondio, Isadora, La Importadora, Le Voilà, Patricia Buffuna, Taranta, Rayuela, Zález, Made with lof, Zapata and Verde Moscú, among others.

Feria/San Luis/Macarena
As well as “el Jueves” in calle Feria, the oldest flea market in Europe that takes place every Thursday morning, there are many handicraft workshops that have appeared in this neighbourhood in recent years.

La Osa Mallol
A couple of years ago two great designers joined forces to share a space where they could create and sell their range of clothing, as well as teaching others how to do the same. Their names are Hisabelia and Loulitas and La Osa Mallol is their studio/atelier (Pasaje Mallol, 31). Whenever you go there they will offer you a cup of tea, but this weekend there will also be anisette and polvorones (Spanish Christmas’ shortbreads).
Desmontando a La Pili
Diversity, feminism and responsible consumption are the name of the game here. So that you can be sustainable even in bed, Mónica Ortiz has come up with some options to make sex better. Her products, available through her website and her fantastic Tuppersex meetings, are designed for learning, solving problems and having fun. Give yourself or someone you love some pleasure and contact her at info@desmontandoalapili.com or find her at Tramallol (Pasaje Mallol, 22).
Rompemoldes
This is a group of workshops specialising in a variety of different crafts. Some are also shops where their products are sold, while others work on commission only basis. Located in a council owned building, this is a secluded space with a wonderful courtyard full of plants. Open the door (San Luis, 70) and sneak in, you won’t regret it!
Lino y fino
Petra started creating and selling handmade linen clothes in Tarifa, near Cadiz, in 1998. She now has two more shops, and we are lucky to have one at calle San Luis, 72. She uses 100% pure linen for unique women’s, men’s and children’s clothes. She also uses some warmer fabrics for winter!
Santa Cleta
There are many bike shops in Seville, a result of growing interest in green transport options, but the most sustainable, committed and active one is Santa Cleta. They won’t only sell you a bike, but will also teach you how to ride it, no matter what your age, and how to maintain and repair it! Ride, or walk, to Plaza del Pumarejo and take the street on the right hand side of the old palace: Fray Diego de Cádiz, 24.

Remember: Think global, shop local and buy handmade.

Callejeando Food Fest in Sevilla

December 8, 2015March 26, 2019 WeLoveTapas

What does foodie heaven look like? We bet it looks something like this…

It all happened this past weekend in Seville and of course we were there, eating and drinking non stop! There were 19 different food trucks from all over Spain with their delicious creations. To start we tried out our own local food truck, La Cayejera, which can usually be found under Triana bridge or at Torre Pelli.

The food truck concept was developed in USA but though the idea has been imported from the states, everything else is local, like this amazing Retinto beef with Payoyo cheese from Cadiz, the basic ingredients for the Brilla Bombilla hamburger.

In Spain we know all about meat, which is why Ox&Roll people were more than prepared to raise a very special one here: Wagyu. You may have heard about Kobe but this is the 100% real one, the genuine article guaranteed by Japanese organizations. They take great care of the animals and of the whole production process, and the result is the tastiest steak we have ever tried.

Culinary fusions are another important element in food trucks recipies, and Tabe Gozo is a perfect example. They were travelling around when came up with the idea of a basque-japanese mix for their project. They even make their own bread.

El Kiosko came with one of their three food trucks and created a special crispy chicken and nachos burger just for this event! BoKarte is its name and here you can learn how to make it: Bokarte de Pollo

These guys spent 15 hours driving to get here from Barcelona, but it was worth the ride because they surprised everybody with their chips nest, as you can see by the long line of hungry customers. La Internacional is an example of how passionate one must be to start this adventure and how successful it can be.

On a recent national TV show called Cocineros al Volante food trucks had to prove their value, and we have the winner here: Javier Brichetto. As you can imagine, we were already really full by then but he had created a burger good enough to be considered the best among so many others…so we had to try it!

Since nature gave us a separated stomach for dessert we could still enjoy Manu Jara’s surprising creations. He prepares cookies, truffles, cakes, and of course his signature choco-burger.

The event has been such a success that they are planning to do it every three months so we will keep an eye out for this Festival, in the hope that there will be more food trucks coming!

Mushroom Season

October 1, 2015March 26, 2019 WeLoveTapas

amanitas cesáreas

Autumn is here, even in Spain, and among the things this season brings with it are wild mushrooms. Country people have always gathered mushrooms for the pot at this time of year, but in Spain in recent decades harvesting mushrooms has become a popular weekend pastime, taking advantage of the temperate weather to get out and about in the woods and fields. It goes without saying, of course, that you should only do this if you are, or are with, an expert in the identification of mushrooms, as although there are only about 50 toxic species out of more than 2,000, half a dozen of these are deadly, and some are easily mistaken for those tasty specimens you’re looking for.

seasonal mushroom selection at Restaurante Modesto

Although in the English language the term mushrooms is reserved for edible varieties, the rest being usually described as toadstools, they are all fungi, neither animal nor plant, but an entire separate kingdom of organisms, of which the visible mushroom or toadstool is only the fruiting body of a network of filaments that draw their sustenance from living or decaying matter. Remarkably, some of the largest living creatures on earth are actually fungi.

wild mushrooms at Mercado de la Encarnación

Many mushrooms are grown commercially, and are available all year round, but in the autumn a wide variety of wild mushrooms, broadly known as setas in Spanish, though this word is also used for certain specific varieties, too (the common, mainly commercially produced button mushrooms are champiñones), make their appearance in bars, restaurants and markets. Each of them has its own distinct taste and texture, and its own preferred uses.

grilled amanitas cesáreas with pesto and parmesan at La Azotea

Boletus (also known as porcini) is one of the most prized. It has a large brown cap that can grow up to 35cm in diameter, though smaller ones are preferred. It has a meaty taste and creamy texture. Most used in soups, pastas and risotto, and is also great in croquettes.

Amanitas cesáreas (Caesar’s mushroom) was a favourite of the Roman emperors. It has a distinctive orange cap and yellow gills and a delicate texture.

Setas, or oyster mushrooms, come in a variety of species, all wide, flat gilled mushrooms, often without a stem. They are normally torn or broken up rather than sliced, and are particularly good for stir fry or sauté.

Níscalo, also known as saffron milk-cap or red pine because of its colour, is often fried whole with garlic and parsley.

Gurumelo is one of the most prized of all wild mushrooms, and is unique to southwestern Spain. Claimed to improve almost any dish, it can be braised, or added to stews or omelettes.

Sevilla | NO8DO

September 15, 2015March 26, 2019 WeLoveTapas

As an observant visitor to our fair city of Seville, you may have noticed, on such diverse objects as lampposts, manhole covers, buildings and garbage trucks, among others, a little motif that seems to read NO8DO, except that the 8 is somewhat large, and often appears as if a little blurred. You may guess from its locations that it is some sort of official logo (it’s actually the city motto), and you may even have wondered what it means. Allow me to explain.

The motif is what is technically known as a rebus (a riddle or puzzle made up of letters, pictures and/or symbols whose names sound like the parts or syllables of a word or phrase). The central 8 represents a skein of wool, in Spanish “madeja”, and yields a phrase that sounds like no-madeja-do, and approximates the Spanish phrase “no me ha dejado” (the h is silent so it’s pretty close), which means “It (Sevilla) has not abandoned me”.

So why is this phrase the motto of the city? Thought you’d never ask. It all goes back to the 13th century (as so much does in these parts), and to the reign of Alfonso X, who succeeded to the throne of Castile and Leon (the castle and lion that you see on the heraldic shield of the Spanish kings) on the death of Ferdinand III, who reconquered Seville from the Moors, in 1252. Known as the Wise, this was more for his intellectual accomplishments than his statecraft, and he was often at odds with his nobles. He had two sons, Ferdinand (the elder) and Sancho. The times were troubled and turbulent, and in the course of one of the intermittent wars with the Moorish kingdom of Granada, Ferdinand was killed at the Battle of Ecija (1275).

Now Ferdinand had two young sons, and in the normal course of things the line of succession would have passed through them, but taking advantage of the fact that they were still children, Sancho invoked a principle known as Agnatic Seniority (basically this meant that the succession should pass to the younger son of the King (ie Sancho), and not to the children of the deceased older son. Alfonso backed the claim of Ferdinand’s children, the nobles backed Sancho, and civil war ensued. Most of the country was soon under Sancho’s control, but Seville remained loyal to Alfonso (they did not abandon him), and were granted the motto as a reward. Alfonso died in 1284 with the succession issue not officially resolved, although it was Sancho who in fact gained the throne.

So now that you know the story you will no doubt see NO8DO everywhere you go. And now you will know why.

Sevilla | Abacerías

July 1, 2015March 26, 2019 WeLoveTapas

Updated: July 1, 2016

You may notice, or may have already noticed, as you make your way from bar to bar in search of tapas and a drink, that the word abacería (often antigua abacería) appears in some of the names in a way that suggests a particular meaning. But what meaning?

On closer inspection you may notice that as well as being bars, these abacerias are also small shops, selling a variety of foodstuffs, but especially delicatessen (hams and cheeses etc), beans, herbs and spices, and speciality items in tins and jars. In fact, these abacerías (and not all abacerías have the word in the name), were shops first, and shops with a bar later, although the presence of a bar is what distinguishes them from the other type of small grocer’s, the tienda de ultramarinos (literally shop of beyond the sea, originally specialising in products from the New World). The word abacería is Arabic, meaning something like “place of supplies”, and nowadays offer the opportunity to sample anything you’ve bought in the shop while still on the premises. By the mid 20th century abacerias had almost disappeared, but over the last few decades there has been a revival, and both “traditional” and “modern” versions are now very popular.

I love these little treasure troves of culinary delights, where you never know quite what you may find. There’s some nostalgia too; a lot of them have a look and atmosphere of little shops that I remember from my childhood, but transported to a different country and almost magically reinvented. These are some of my favourites, and well worth seeking out for that very special Sevilla experience.

Casa Moreno is one of my favourite places in Sevilla. A tiny shop in front with a little bar hidden away at the back serving mostly montaditos (toasted buns) with delicious meat and cheese fillings. Great atmosphere that’s old fashioned in just the right way.
Casa Moreno
Gamazo
7 Arenal

La Antigua Abaceria de San Lorenzo isn’t actually that antigua, though it certainly looks the part. Hidden away in a residential neighbourhood it’s obviously a locals bar, cosy and intimate with everybody on first name terms.
La Antigua Abacería de San Lorenzo
Teodosio 53
San Lorenzo

La Antigua Abaceria in Triana has something of the feel of a country pub, and is a great little place to stop for a beer and snacks. It’s recently been extended into a second premises next door, but still has the same friendly atmosphere.
La Antigua Abacería
Pureza 12
Triana

La Almadraba is part of a modernising trend at Seville’s oldest market in Calle Feria. As the name suggests it’s all about the tuna, with quality products from top brands such as Herpac. Don’t miss the mojama (cured tuna). Delicious.
La Almadraba
Feria Market

Salsamento is a brand new abacería in the revitalised Regina neighbourhood behind the Metropol Parasol that has succeeded in combining the traditional spirit of the abacería with a totally modern light and clean interior design. There’s a nice mix of cheeses and charcuterie with simple tapas and a nicely displayed range of speciality tinned goods.
Salsamento
Jerónimo Hernández 19
Centro / Regina

Flores Jamon y Vinos in Puerta Triana, is a modern, upmarket version of abaceria. Specialising in top quality jamon, but with plenty of other goodies to excite. Eat here or take away, with ham and other cured meats cut to order or available vacuum packed.
Flores Jamones & Vinos
San Pablo 24
Centro/Arenal

Photos courtesy of Azahar Sevilla

Sevilla | Best Ice Cream

June 15, 2015March 26, 2019 WeLoveTapas

classic vanilla & chocolate cone from Freskura

Okay, this is hardly news, but summer in Seville can get pretty hot. Afternoon temperatures often reach 40ºC, the sun beats down from directly overhead, and only mad dogs and Englishmen are still out and about (I’m joking of course; the mad dogs are all indoors, where it’s a little cooler). In days of yore there was little relief from this state of affairs, which is why most Spanish buildings are constructed to keep the heat out as far as is humanly possible, with those shady courtyards and thick walls, and not too many south-facing windows.

Times have changed, however, and a number of inventions have made Seville a realistic summer holiday destination. Air conditioning is one of these, and indeed the art of refrigeration in general is another. A third, and the topic of our homily of the day, was made possible by these advances. I speak of nothing other than that summertime staple, the humble, and often not so humble, ice cream.

Italian soft-serve at Buoni le Pizze

Sweet treats made from fruit and ice go back a long way, certainly more than two thousand years, and we have references to such delights from both ancient China and Persia. Special buildings (mostly underground) with high insulation properties, where ice could be stored are also known. Later the Arabs added milk to these frozen delicacies. In the absence of refrigeration, however, these developments relied on supplies of natural ice, either stored from the winter, or transported from nearby mountains. Iced fruits or creams were therefore the preserve of the wealthy, and not for the common folk.

trademark ice cream flower at Amorina

With the invention of refrigeration in the 19th century, however, ice cream became a staple summer treat for everyone from Blackpool to the Med. Spanish ice cream is generally made in the Italian “gelato” style, a thick creamy ice cream that’s actually lower in calories than most others. In the last ten years both the number of ice cream parlours in Seville and the variety of flavours available have increased dramatically. These are some of our favourites.

Heladería Rayas
Almirante Apodaca, 1
Tel: +34 954 221 746

The original Rayas opened its doors here in 1980, and there is now a second shop (shown above) near the Puerta de Triana. It’s still among the most highly regarded parlours in Seville.

Heladeria La Fiorentina
Zaragoza, 16
Tel: +34 954 221 550

Considered to be one of the most innovative, with both traditional and modern flavours. Also does excellent granizadas (half frozen drinks that I used to know as “slush-puppies” back in the day).

Amorino
Granada, 2
Tel: +34 954 227 428

I’m not generally a big fan of international chains, but Amorino’s, recently opened just off Plaza Nueva in the city centre, has a nice ambience, a good location and some great ice-cream.

Freskura
Vulcano, 4
Tel: +34 645 859 198

As well as a full selection of ice creams Freskura also has desserts and pastries. You can find them just off the Alameda de Hercules in a convenient location for a post lunch merienda.

Buoni de Pizze
Amor de Dios, 56
Tel: +34 955 293 150

Wonderful Italian soft-serve made from locally sourced fresh milk. Two flavours are made each morning.

Day Trip to Córdoba

June 1, 2015March 26, 2019 WeLoveTapas

Just an hour by train from either Sevilla or Malaga, Cordoba is one of a string of romantic Andalucian cities stretching across southern Spain. It was an important Roman city (you can still see, and walk across, the Roman bridge over the River Guadalquivir), but its glory days were in the 8^th to 10^th centuries, when it was the capital of Islamic Spain, and one of the most important cultural centres in Europe, where Moors, Jews and Christians lived together with a degree of religious tolerance remarkable for its time. The Mezquita, or Grand Mosque, one of the most beautiful and historic buildings in Spain, was built during this time.

Part of the charm of the old city today comes from the atmosphere of slightly faded greatness that fills the old courtyards and narrow streets, and make it an enchanting city to stroll around. Cordoba is also famous as a city of flowers, and in spring and early summer in particular is vibrant with colours and smells. Not surprisingly, there is an annual competition for the best patios, courtyards and balconies, but you can also visit one of our favourite places in Cordoba, the Palacio Viana, which has 13 garden courtyards each in a different style.

Number one on everyone’s must see list is the Mezquita (the Grand Mosque, now a cathedral), the symbol of the city, with its famous horseshoe arches. Despite the number of visitors it still feels like a calm and peaceful oasis, though people have mixed feelings about the cathedral that was built in the middle of it. It didn’t impress the Spanish king of the time either; he said of it “You have destroyed something unique to build something I can find in any Spanish city.” Also nearby and worth a visit, especially for the gardens, is the Alcázar of the Christian kings

Perhaps the most picturesque area of Cordoba is the old Jewish quarter, a neighbourhood of small courtyards and narrow twisty streets inside the remains of the west wall of the city. Here you can find the old synagogue, the Sephardi house and the zoco (market), a courtyard with small shops and workshops still making the jewellery and leather goods for which Cordoba is famous, and a good place to come for a souvenir or two.

Cordoba is the home of salmorejo, the thick tomato soup often served with a garnish of hard boiled egg and jamón, of the flamenquín (rolled pork and cheese fried in a coating of breadcrumbs), and of fried aubergine/eggplant with a dressing of cane sugar molasses. You can also find the biggest tortillas de patatas in the world, available from Bar Santos next to the Mezquita in calle Magistral Gonzáles Francés. Each one is made with 30 eggs and 5 kilos of potatoes. They do a mean salmorejo too.

Some of our other favourite bars & restaurants are:
Blanco Enea
Plaza de San Pedro, 1

La Regadera
Ronda de Isasa 10

Casa Pepe de la Juderia
Calle del Romero 1

Garum 2.1
San Fernando 120

Casa Mazal
Tomás Conde 3

El Churrasco
Calle del Romero 38

Sevilla | Vamos a la Feria!

April 15, 2015March 26, 2019 WeLoveTapas

The Feria de Abril is Seville’s traditional spring fair and general celebration, and starts two weeks after Easter Monday (this year April 21 to 26), officially at midnight on Monday with the alumbrao, the switching on of the fairground lights, although in practice people may go to the fairground as early as the Saturday. Monday evening is traditionally the pescaito, the fried fish dinner. The fair runs until Sunday, and finishes with fireworks at midnight.

Originally founded in 1847 as a horse and cattle fair on the Prado San Sebastian, the feria has been held on a purpose built site in Los Remedios since 1973. The streets are lined with little stripy marquees (casetas) where you can eat and drink, and decked with lights and paper globes strung from poles. Fast food and candy stalls are much in evidence, and adjacent to the fairground is an area known as the Calle del Infierno, Hell Street, where you can find the funfair and attractions.

During the day the big draw is the parade of horses and carriages, all groomed and polished and spick and span, the men dressed in the traditional traje corto (short jacket, tight trousers and wide brimmed hat), the women in flouncy polka dot flamenco dresses. Later, many of the participants will head off to the bullring. Bullfighting is still popular in Seville, and the period around feria is the main bullfighting season. The bullfights are also an important social and business occasion, and everybody who’s anybody will be there.

From the evening onwards, though, it’s party time at the fairground. There’s lots of eating and drinking and dancing of Sevillanas, a local flamenco style folk dance. You should try rebujito, a mixture of fino sherry and 7Up, which is the fair’s traditional tipple, though it’s not everyone’s cup of tea, and fried fish, prawns and puchero (a meat stew) to ward off hangover. For those with the stamina the party goes on until dawn. Fortify yourself with chocolate and churros on your way home.

To get to the fairground you can take a taxi (which have special – higher – rates this week), one of the regular bus services 6 or C1/C2, or the special Feria bus service that runs from the Prado San Sebastian. It’s also possible to walk, especially if you’re in the southern part of the city.

Sevilla | Churros & Chocolate

April 1, 2015March 26, 2019 WeLoveTapas

After coffee and toast, churros and chocolate is probably Seville’s most popular breakfast. Churros are made by squeezing dough through a nozzle, and deep frying it in a special round vat of hot oil. It’s a dish that’s common in Spain and Latin America, and comes in two basic types. In Seville, the fat round spiral known as “porra” or “masas” is the most typical, but there is also a thinner version with ridges called “papas” that are made from potatoes. Traditionally they are eaten for breakfast or mid-morning with a thick hot chocolate sauce for dunking (some people prefer coffee), but may also be served in the early evening for “merienda”. The high fat and carbs content makes them an excellent “hangover cure” and at weekends some churrerías (also known as calenterías) will open as early as 6am to take advantage of homeward bound revellers.

People often ask me where they can get good churros, so below is a list of some of our favourite churrerías in the centre of Sevilla. Do you know of any others that you’d like to recommend?

Churrería Alfalfa
The Churreria Alfalfa in Calle Guardarmino on the corner of Plaza Alfalfa has been run by Antonio and Inma Paz Tejada for more than thirty years.

Opening times 8.00am to 12.00 (except Mondays). Coffee and the family’s special recipe chocolate are only served at weekends, but you can take your churros to one of the nearby bars to have with a drink.

Calenteria Postigo
The same family have been making churros at this little stall next to the Postigo in Calle Arfe for six generations (150 years), with Angela & Manolo in charge of the porras and papas. Price 1.50 euros for a ración.

Opening times 7.00 to 12.30.
Take-away only, but you can sit down with your churros and order chocolate from Bar Los Niños a couple of doors up the street.

Calentería San Pablo
A friendly little take away tucked into the corner of San Pablo and Bailen, that has been selling churros every morning except Sundays since 1960. Churros are 1.20 euros, with chocolate 2.50 euros. Take-away only

Doña Carmen Cafeteria
Pleasant little family owned bar in Calle San Eloy in the town centre that is open for churros Mon to Sat 8.00 to 14.30 and 17.00 to 20.30, either to eat here or take away. Churros with coffee cost 2.30 euros, with chocolate 2.70 euros.

Bar El Comercio
Founded in 1904, and still owned by the same family, Bar El Comercio in Calle Lineros retains a traditional appearance and ambiance. Open all day (except Sundays) from 7.30 to 21.00 and serving churros morning and evening.

La Centuria
La Centuria, behind the Metropol Parasol in Plaza Encarnación, gets is name from the “Centurions” who accompany one of the Semana Santa processions, and who used to give a concert here on Jueves Santo before setting off. Churros are available morning and evening.

Sevilla | Semana Santa Preview

March 15, 2015March 26, 2019 WeLoveTapas

You may think you know something about religious festivals and festivities, but trust us, unless you’ve been to Sevilla for Semana Santa (Holy Week) there’s a definite gap in your education. Although Holy Week is an important festival throughout the Catholic world, the celebrations in Sevilla are thought to be the largest and most elaborate.

The basic format doesn’t sound too complicated. The celebrations are organised by an association of religious brotherhoods (with the co-operation of the City Council), each of which is directly responsible for one of the processions (there are around 40 of these during the course of the week) that carry the statues of the Christ and the Virgin from where they normally “live” to the Cathedral to be blessed, and then return them. The actual mechanics can get complicated, of course, and between the processions and the onlookers a large part of the city, but especially along the processional way and around the Cathedral, is pretty much closed for normal business.

35 costaleros carry the weight of the pasos on the backs of their necks

So far so good, but this is where it starts to get a bit weird if you don’t know what’s going on. For a start those floats with the statues are heavy, and also valuable (in most cases very valuable), and they have to be moved purely by manpower, often through narrow streets and around tight corners. The manpower is those guys with the rolled up towels on their heads (actually purpose built headgear) to protect them from the weight of the float. They’re called costaleros, and for a couple of months beforehand they can be found practising their routes with floats weighted with sandbags and concrete blocks.

special headgear for carrying the pasos

Even odder for the uninitiated are the penitents who accompany the statues. You hardly need us to tell you what most people’s first impression is when they first see them. The pointy hoods serve the same purpose in both cases, though; they preserve the wearer’s anonymity.

But despite the solemnity of the occasion Holy Week and the period of preparation leading up to it has its moments of humour. Some of our favourites are recorded here, from the boy in an adult’s hood to the cigarette smoking penitent (his world weary expression is priceless), and from the “stormtroopers” to the dangers of driving on wax coated streets, but you’re sure to find plenty of your own too.

incense burners

semana santa bottle recycle bin

smoke break

slippery when waxy

costaleros taking a break (notice pedestrian slippery when waxy sign)

stacked chairs along the procession routes