Day Trips | We Love Tapas

Typical Triana courtyard

Triana is the neighbourhood of Seville across the river from the old walled city, and is regarded by many Trianeros as a completely separate entity, historically, the home of Gypsies, sailors and other groups from the metaphorical wrong side of the tracks, and it retains something of that atmosphere today, with strong attachments to the cultures of flamenco and bullfighting, together with a certain religious fervour and sentimentality. If you’re in Seville for more than a couple of days and want to get away from the main tourist areas you should take some time to cross “The Bridge” to this near neighbour of the city.

Isabel II bridge

The Bridge is the Isabel II bridge (popularly just called Triana bridge), a wonderful example of mid 19th century iron architecture which replaced the previous “bridge of boats”, built by the Moors in the 12th century. Crossing over you get some fine views along the river, on one side to the old port and the Torre del Oro, with the towers of the Plaza España beyond, as well as the old Moorish dock on the Triana side. In the other direction is the site of the 1992 expo and the Cartuja monastery.

Calle Betis from Plaza Altozano

The square immediately across the bridge, the Plaza Altozano, and the buildings around it, are still the hub of “old” Triana. The Restaurante El Faro on the left, beside the steps going down to Calle Betis, is an unmissable landmark. Much prettier, though, is the Carmen Chapel opposite, designed by Anibal Gonzalez in preparation for the 1929 Spanish American exhibition, with its brickwork and colourful tiles.

Before you begin exploring, grab a little breakfast at Manu Jara, a little French style patisserie on Calle Pureza with a tempting selection of croissants and pastries, as well as the obligatory coffee. Just opposite you can also find the Antigua Abacería, a traditional style pit stop that’s also worth a visit to whet your appetite.

Triana market stall

Then it’s back to the main square for a visit to Triana market, a must see for anyone with an interest in local food culture. With its old ceramic tile nameplates it’s probably the prettiest of Seville’s markets, as well as having all the traditional market produce, from colourful fruit and veg to fresh fish, hams, sausages, game, wonderful cheeses, and olives, beans and spices. There are also a number of market bars, both traditional and “gourmet”, including an oyster and sushi bar, and a microbrewery, which give you a good opportunity for a spot of refreshment and people watching.

Inquisition Alley

Beneath the market is a reminder of the Dark Side of Spain’s past, the Castillo San Jorge. Originally built to guard and defend the bridge of boats, it was for more than three centuries the Seville headquarters of the infamous Spanish Inquisition, and if you were unfortunate enough to be denounced for some real or imaged transgression this was where they brought you. The ruins are now a free museum, and though it’s quite grim (not a cushion or comfy chair to be seen) don’t expect lots of gore and sensationalism – just a reminder of where intolerance leads.

Ceramica Santa Ana

Behind the market is the old ceramics and pottery district. Even in Roman times Triana was famous for its pottery, and the martyred Sevillana saints Justina and Rufina were said to be potters from Triana. In the industrial age it was a major local activity, but now little remains except a few craft workshops, where you can pick up some nice colourful souvenirs. You can get a glimpse of former splendours with a visit to the Santa Ana Ceramics Museum, where you can see some of the old kilns, and examples of the work produced here.

Of course, you’ll be wanting to round off your day in one of Triana’s many busy tapas bars. Some of my favourites include Primero del Puente, a typical fried fish specialist opposite the Torre del Oro, Las Golondrinas on Pages del Corro (try the radishes. Seriously), and Sol y Sombra on Castillo.

Just an hour by train from either Sevilla or Malaga, Cordoba is one of a string of romantic Andalucian cities stretching across southern Spain. It was an important Roman city (you can still see, and walk across, the Roman bridge over the River Guadalquivir), but its glory days were in the 8^th to 10^th centuries, when it was the capital of Islamic Spain, and one of the most important cultural centres in Europe, where Moors, Jews and Christians lived together with a degree of religious tolerance remarkable for its time. The Mezquita, or Grand Mosque, one of the most beautiful and historic buildings in Spain, was built during this time.

Part of the charm of the old city today comes from the atmosphere of slightly faded greatness that fills the old courtyards and narrow streets, and make it an enchanting city to stroll around. Cordoba is also famous as a city of flowers, and in spring and early summer in particular is vibrant with colours and smells. Not surprisingly, there is an annual competition for the best patios, courtyards and balconies, but you can also visit one of our favourite places in Cordoba, the Palacio Viana, which has 13 garden courtyards each in a different style.

Number one on everyone’s must see list is the Mezquita (the Grand Mosque, now a cathedral), the symbol of the city, with its famous horseshoe arches. Despite the number of visitors it still feels like a calm and peaceful oasis, though people have mixed feelings about the cathedral that was built in the middle of it. It didn’t impress the Spanish king of the time either; he said of it “You have destroyed something unique to build something I can find in any Spanish city.” Also nearby and worth a visit, especially for the gardens, is the Alcázar of the Christian kings

Perhaps the most picturesque area of Cordoba is the old Jewish quarter, a neighbourhood of small courtyards and narrow twisty streets inside the remains of the west wall of the city. Here you can find the old synagogue, the Sephardi house and the zoco (market), a courtyard with small shops and workshops still making the jewellery and leather goods for which Cordoba is famous, and a good place to come for a souvenir or two.

Cordoba is the home of salmorejo, the thick tomato soup often served with a garnish of hard boiled egg and jamón, of the flamenquín (rolled pork and cheese fried in a coating of breadcrumbs), and of fried aubergine/eggplant with a dressing of cane sugar molasses. You can also find the biggest tortillas de patatas in the world, available from Bar Santos next to the Mezquita in calle Magistral Gonzáles Francés. Each one is made with 30 eggs and 5 kilos of potatoes. They do a mean salmorejo too.