andalucia | We Love Tapas

Seville | Alternative Markets

December 15, 2015March 26, 2019 WeLoveTapas

Alternative shopping

At this time of year with Christmas just around the corner Seville city centre is crowded with shoppers looking for the best presents they can find. But how can we make our loved ones happy while still supporting local businesses? Actually, there are plenty of options and we’ve come up with this little guide to help you.

Craft Markets

Mucho Maske Market
This little craft market started up 9 years ago, and has been held in a variety of locations. This year it’s in the Regina area behind the Metropol Parasol (calle Viriato, 9) from the 17th until the 20th of December and will showcase 19 different brands, including jewellery and wooden toys.

El Butrón Market
El Butrón is a cultural space where artists can meet and display their creations in temporary exhibitions. This is it’s 4th year, and it’s running from the 18th to the 20th of December at calle Butrón, 7, with workshops, music and organic food.

Mercado de Artesanía
Organized by the Federación Artesanal de Sevilla and the City council Seville’s famous annual hadicraft market is already open in Plaza Nueva and will be there until the 5th of January, with a wide range of quality merchandise to choose from.

Shopping by Barrio

Regina Market
The Regina market, actually an association of small local shops in Viriato, Jerónimo Hernández and Amparo streets, offers an individualistic style of shopping, with a mix of the moderni and the traditional. Some of the shops you can explore to find your presents are Un gato en bicicleta, La seta coqueta, Wabi Sabi, Un Globo or Pai-pai shop.

Soho Benita
On the southern side of Las Setas we find another big area full of small fashion, design, and art places, together with some of the bars we visit in our tours and recommend in this blog. Spend a day in this neighbourhood and discover how Seville can be traditional and surprising at the same time. Soho Benita shops are Artefactum, Delimbo, Eirín, Florypondio, Isadora, La Importadora, Le Voilà, Patricia Buffuna, Taranta, Rayuela, Zález, Made with lof, Zapata and Verde Moscú, among others.

Feria/San Luis/Macarena
As well as “el Jueves” in calle Feria, the oldest flea market in Europe that takes place every Thursday morning, there are many handicraft workshops that have appeared in this neighbourhood in recent years.

La Osa Mallol
A couple of years ago two great designers joined forces to share a space where they could create and sell their range of clothing, as well as teaching others how to do the same. Their names are Hisabelia and Loulitas and La Osa Mallol is their studio/atelier (Pasaje Mallol, 31). Whenever you go there they will offer you a cup of tea, but this weekend there will also be anisette and polvorones (Spanish Christmas’ shortbreads).
Desmontando a La Pili
Diversity, feminism and responsible consumption are the name of the game here. So that you can be sustainable even in bed, Mónica Ortiz has come up with some options to make sex better. Her products, available through her website and her fantastic Tuppersex meetings, are designed for learning, solving problems and having fun. Give yourself or someone you love some pleasure and contact her at info@desmontandoalapili.com or find her at Tramallol (Pasaje Mallol, 22).
Rompemoldes
This is a group of workshops specialising in a variety of different crafts. Some are also shops where their products are sold, while others work on commission only basis. Located in a council owned building, this is a secluded space with a wonderful courtyard full of plants. Open the door (San Luis, 70) and sneak in, you won’t regret it!
Lino y fino
Petra started creating and selling handmade linen clothes in Tarifa, near Cadiz, in 1998. She now has two more shops, and we are lucky to have one at calle San Luis, 72. She uses 100% pure linen for unique women’s, men’s and children’s clothes. She also uses some warmer fabrics for winter!
Santa Cleta
There are many bike shops in Seville, a result of growing interest in green transport options, but the most sustainable, committed and active one is Santa Cleta. They won’t only sell you a bike, but will also teach you how to ride it, no matter what your age, and how to maintain and repair it! Ride, or walk, to Plaza del Pumarejo and take the street on the right hand side of the old palace: Fray Diego de Cádiz, 24.

Remember: Think global, shop local and buy handmade.

Jerez | Ruta de Tabancos

October 15, 2015March 26, 2019 WeLoveTapas

Jerez de la Frontera is a short train ride away from Seville and is, of course, most famous for its local wine – sherry. While you are there you should not only visit one of the city’s many bodegas, but also do at least part of the “Ruta de Tabancos“. Tabancos are a type of bar or tavern that is typical of Jerez de la Frontera, combining the social function of a bar and the commercial function of a “despacho de vinos”, or wine shop, selling wine from the cask to take away or for consumption on the premises. The earliest known use of the word is in Cervantes (1547-1616), of Don Quixote fame, and may be a combination of the words “estanco” (a shop selling government controlled products) and “tabaco”. We don’t really know what these early tabancos may have been like, but the word doesn’t seem to have caught on until the early 20th century, when it began to be used in its modern sense.

Ruta de Tabancos map by Tabancora

After a period of decline in the late 20th century tabancos have had a resurgence, and now include some more modern influences to complement the traditional. The Ruta was developed by Tabancora (promoted by the City Council and the Sherry Academy) to help maintain the traditions of the tabanco, and several times a year there are special Ruta events. Recently – in the spirit of Serious Research – the We Love Tapas Team undertook the gruelling 😉 task of visiting each bar on the Ruta. These are our findings…

Tabanco El Pasaje
Santa Maria, 8
Tel: +34 956 333 359
Website

El Pasaje was officially founded in 1925 by Don José González Navarro, which makes it the oldest tabanco still operating in Jerez, but even before this the premises had functioned as a small grocer’s, and later as a flamenco club for the waiters of Jerez. Flamenco is still an important part of the ambiance, with live flamenco shows on Friday and Saturday evenings, and sometimes impromptu performances at other times. The name derives from the fact that it has two entrances, so the bar itself is a “passage”. Sherries are by Bodega Sierra Maestro, and some others are available too. A very traditional and fun atmosphere, and light tapas snacks are also available.

Tabanco San Pablo
San Pablo, 12
Tel: +34 956 338 436
Website

Another very traditional tabanco founded in 1934 by Manuel Muñoz Peña, and still run by his descendants. It still has the original wooden counter and sherry casks (sherries by Gonzalez Byass), and you can try some typical Andaluz tapas, such as jamón and pringá, with your drink. There is also a pleasant terrace outside, though it’s all self-service here.

Tabanco La Pandilla
Los Valientes, 14
Tel +34 956 343 248
Website

La Pandilla first opened its doors in 1936. Closed in 1979 during the decline of tabancos, it reopened again in 2013, and still preserves a lot of the original decor and ambiance, including the beautiful wood beam ceiling and old posters and pictures on the walls. The original Sanchez Romate sherries are still served, along with filled rolls, cured meats, cheeses and marinades.

Tabanco Plateros
Francos, 1
Tel: +34 665 213 415
Website

Plateros has a terrific location on the corner of the square of the same name with a pleasant terrace outside, though the bar itself is tiny. It specialises in sherries from some of the smaller bodegas and cooperatives, and local cured meats and cheeses. Super friendly staff and great “local” atmosphere.

Tabanco El Guitarrón de San Pedro
Bizcocheros, 16
Tel +34 649 656 918
Website

Opened in 2012 by Jose Antonio Reguera and Mireia Rodríguez, this is a relatively modern and “upmarket” tabanco, but has all the essentials of the genre. There’s a full range of sherries, as well as cured meats, cheeses and preserves (and one of the best tortilla de patatas I’ve ever had). They also do tastings, and events to educate people about sherry, and there are regular flamenco performances.

Tabanco Las Bandarillas
Caballeros, 12
Tel: +34 619 006 988
Website

Also opened in 2012, by Fernando Lobato and Lucas Soto, Las Bandarillas replaced an existing bar-restaurant of the same name. As well as sherry and vermouth from the barrel there are preserves and delicatessen products to eat on the premises or take away, and a good selection of hot tapas. In fact, it has more of a tapas bar than tabanco feel to it, but still a fun and lively place to stop.

Tabanco La Bodeguita
Arcos, 5
Tel: +34 607 892 221

Opened in 1947 by Rafael Ramirez Pérez, and now run by Fernando Lobato, La Bodeguita has been described as more Jerezano than Jerez itself. A small counter at the back serves for the consumption of an ample selection of sherries drawn straight from the barrel. An even bigger selection is available in bottles ranged along the shelves to one side. Nothing can really prepare you for La Bodeguita, just go and see for yourself. We loved the welcoming and convivial atmosphere.

Mushroom Season

October 1, 2015March 26, 2019 WeLoveTapas

amanitas cesáreas

Autumn is here, even in Spain, and among the things this season brings with it are wild mushrooms. Country people have always gathered mushrooms for the pot at this time of year, but in Spain in recent decades harvesting mushrooms has become a popular weekend pastime, taking advantage of the temperate weather to get out and about in the woods and fields. It goes without saying, of course, that you should only do this if you are, or are with, an expert in the identification of mushrooms, as although there are only about 50 toxic species out of more than 2,000, half a dozen of these are deadly, and some are easily mistaken for those tasty specimens you’re looking for.

seasonal mushroom selection at Restaurante Modesto

Although in the English language the term mushrooms is reserved for edible varieties, the rest being usually described as toadstools, they are all fungi, neither animal nor plant, but an entire separate kingdom of organisms, of which the visible mushroom or toadstool is only the fruiting body of a network of filaments that draw their sustenance from living or decaying matter. Remarkably, some of the largest living creatures on earth are actually fungi.

wild mushrooms at Mercado de la Encarnación

Many mushrooms are grown commercially, and are available all year round, but in the autumn a wide variety of wild mushrooms, broadly known as setas in Spanish, though this word is also used for certain specific varieties, too (the common, mainly commercially produced button mushrooms are champiñones), make their appearance in bars, restaurants and markets. Each of them has its own distinct taste and texture, and its own preferred uses.

grilled amanitas cesáreas with pesto and parmesan at La Azotea

Boletus (also known as porcini) is one of the most prized. It has a large brown cap that can grow up to 35cm in diameter, though smaller ones are preferred. It has a meaty taste and creamy texture. Most used in soups, pastas and risotto, and is also great in croquettes.

Amanitas cesáreas (Caesar’s mushroom) was a favourite of the Roman emperors. It has a distinctive orange cap and yellow gills and a delicate texture.

Setas, or oyster mushrooms, come in a variety of species, all wide, flat gilled mushrooms, often without a stem. They are normally torn or broken up rather than sliced, and are particularly good for stir fry or sauté.

Níscalo, also known as saffron milk-cap or red pine because of its colour, is often fried whole with garlic and parsley.

Gurumelo is one of the most prized of all wild mushrooms, and is unique to southwestern Spain. Claimed to improve almost any dish, it can be braised, or added to stews or omelettes.

Sevilla | NO8DO

September 15, 2015March 26, 2019 WeLoveTapas

As an observant visitor to our fair city of Seville, you may have noticed, on such diverse objects as lampposts, manhole covers, buildings and garbage trucks, among others, a little motif that seems to read NO8DO, except that the 8 is somewhat large, and often appears as if a little blurred. You may guess from its locations that it is some sort of official logo (it’s actually the city motto), and you may even have wondered what it means. Allow me to explain.

The motif is what is technically known as a rebus (a riddle or puzzle made up of letters, pictures and/or symbols whose names sound like the parts or syllables of a word or phrase). The central 8 represents a skein of wool, in Spanish “madeja”, and yields a phrase that sounds like no-madeja-do, and approximates the Spanish phrase “no me ha dejado” (the h is silent so it’s pretty close), which means “It (Sevilla) has not abandoned me”.

So why is this phrase the motto of the city? Thought you’d never ask. It all goes back to the 13th century (as so much does in these parts), and to the reign of Alfonso X, who succeeded to the throne of Castile and Leon (the castle and lion that you see on the heraldic shield of the Spanish kings) on the death of Ferdinand III, who reconquered Seville from the Moors, in 1252. Known as the Wise, this was more for his intellectual accomplishments than his statecraft, and he was often at odds with his nobles. He had two sons, Ferdinand (the elder) and Sancho. The times were troubled and turbulent, and in the course of one of the intermittent wars with the Moorish kingdom of Granada, Ferdinand was killed at the Battle of Ecija (1275).

Now Ferdinand had two young sons, and in the normal course of things the line of succession would have passed through them, but taking advantage of the fact that they were still children, Sancho invoked a principle known as Agnatic Seniority (basically this meant that the succession should pass to the younger son of the King (ie Sancho), and not to the children of the deceased older son. Alfonso backed the claim of Ferdinand’s children, the nobles backed Sancho, and civil war ensued. Most of the country was soon under Sancho’s control, but Seville remained loyal to Alfonso (they did not abandon him), and were granted the motto as a reward. Alfonso died in 1284 with the succession issue not officially resolved, although it was Sancho who in fact gained the throne.

So now that you know the story you will no doubt see NO8DO everywhere you go. And now you will know why.

Sherry 101

August 1, 2015March 26, 2019 WeLoveTapas

Although there may be other “sherry style” wines, true sherries are those wines, and only those wines, produced in the area around Jerez de la Frontera in southwest Spain, or more specifically, those wines aged in the towns of Jerez, Puerto de Santa Maria, and Sanlúcar de Barrameda under the rules of the Consejo Regulador for the “Denominaciones de Origen” of Jerez and Manzanilla.

We meet a lot of people who associate sherry with that sweet, dark liquid produced for Christmas gatherings by grandmothers and maiden aunts, but there’s a whole world of sherries beyond this, and its aficionados consider it as possibly the world’s most fascinating and underrated wine. So what’s so special about sherry?

Sherries come in a range of styles from light super-dry wines to dense, dark sweet ones. Historically, England has a long connection with sherry (they were highly praised by Shakespeare); English names like Harvey’s and Humbert & Williams feature among the bodegas of Jerez, and the English have been a major consumer of cream sherries in particular. But although there are some excellent wines right across the spectrum, the upsurge of interest in recent years has been in the dry sherries in particular.

Dry sherries come in two basic styles – those that are biologically aged under a layer of yeast (called flor), and those that are aged oxidatively, or in contact with the air. The former are either Manzanillas (from Sanlucar), or Finos (from Jerez and El Puerto), and the latter are Olorosos (there are some additional twists to the story, but more of that later). All dry sherries are made from the Palomino Fino grape variety (Manzanillas and Finos generally from the first pressing to make a lighter wine, Olorosos from the second for a fuller body; the third pressing is used for grape spirit and vinegar), are fortified (have grape spirit added to increase the level of alcohol), and are aged in a system called a solera.

The wine coming out of fermentation is generally around 12%. It is then raised to an alcohol level of around 15-16%, which helps a vigorous growth of yeast to cover and shield the wine from the air while the yeast consumes the sugars in it (biological aging). Olorosos are fortified to even higher levels, about 17-18%, to prevent the yeast from growing (oxidative aging).

Two of the most highly prized dry sherries are amontillado and palo cortado. Amontillados are initially aged like finos, but after about 3 years extra alcohol is added to kill the yeast, and the sherry is thereafter aged oxidatively, creating a complex and versatile wine. Palo Cortados also start life as finos, but the yeast dies or is killed very early on to create what is, in effect, an oloroso made from the lighter first pressing.

At the other end of the spectrum are the sweet sherries. These are made from the sweeter Pedro Ximenez and Muscat grapes. Good sweet sherries are dark, smooth and rich, often with a flavour of raisins, as the grapes are partially sun-dried before pressing to concentrate the sugar.

Cream sherries are a blend of dry sherry (usually oloroso, but fino based cream sherries are also possible) with sweet wines, either moscatel or PX, and are the style that used to be the most popular in Britain, with something of a boom in the 60s and 70s, when brand names like Harvey’s Bristol Cream and Croft Original were in vogue.

If you’re coming to Spain and have never had sherry this is the time to learn something about this complex and enigmatic wine, and to discover why so many of those involved with sherry get so passionate about it. To have a personalised sherry experience we recommend the Introduction to Sherry tour (with tapas!) offered by Official Sherry Educator Shawn Hennessey of Azahar Sevilla, and featured in Telegraph Travel as one of the Top 10 Food and Drink Holidays in Spain.

photos courtesy of Azahar Sevilla

Sevilla | Abacerías

July 1, 2015March 26, 2019 WeLoveTapas

Updated: July 1, 2016

You may notice, or may have already noticed, as you make your way from bar to bar in search of tapas and a drink, that the word abacería (often antigua abacería) appears in some of the names in a way that suggests a particular meaning. But what meaning?

On closer inspection you may notice that as well as being bars, these abacerias are also small shops, selling a variety of foodstuffs, but especially delicatessen (hams and cheeses etc), beans, herbs and spices, and speciality items in tins and jars. In fact, these abacerías (and not all abacerías have the word in the name), were shops first, and shops with a bar later, although the presence of a bar is what distinguishes them from the other type of small grocer’s, the tienda de ultramarinos (literally shop of beyond the sea, originally specialising in products from the New World). The word abacería is Arabic, meaning something like “place of supplies”, and nowadays offer the opportunity to sample anything you’ve bought in the shop while still on the premises. By the mid 20th century abacerias had almost disappeared, but over the last few decades there has been a revival, and both “traditional” and “modern” versions are now very popular.

I love these little treasure troves of culinary delights, where you never know quite what you may find. There’s some nostalgia too; a lot of them have a look and atmosphere of little shops that I remember from my childhood, but transported to a different country and almost magically reinvented. These are some of my favourites, and well worth seeking out for that very special Sevilla experience.

Casa Moreno is one of my favourite places in Sevilla. A tiny shop in front with a little bar hidden away at the back serving mostly montaditos (toasted buns) with delicious meat and cheese fillings. Great atmosphere that’s old fashioned in just the right way.
Casa Moreno
Gamazo
7 Arenal

La Antigua Abaceria de San Lorenzo isn’t actually that antigua, though it certainly looks the part. Hidden away in a residential neighbourhood it’s obviously a locals bar, cosy and intimate with everybody on first name terms.
La Antigua Abacería de San Lorenzo
Teodosio 53
San Lorenzo

La Antigua Abaceria in Triana has something of the feel of a country pub, and is a great little place to stop for a beer and snacks. It’s recently been extended into a second premises next door, but still has the same friendly atmosphere.
La Antigua Abacería
Pureza 12
Triana

La Almadraba is part of a modernising trend at Seville’s oldest market in Calle Feria. As the name suggests it’s all about the tuna, with quality products from top brands such as Herpac. Don’t miss the mojama (cured tuna). Delicious.
La Almadraba
Feria Market

Salsamento is a brand new abacería in the revitalised Regina neighbourhood behind the Metropol Parasol that has succeeded in combining the traditional spirit of the abacería with a totally modern light and clean interior design. There’s a nice mix of cheeses and charcuterie with simple tapas and a nicely displayed range of speciality tinned goods.
Salsamento
Jerónimo Hernández 19
Centro / Regina

Flores Jamon y Vinos in Puerta Triana, is a modern, upmarket version of abaceria. Specialising in top quality jamon, but with plenty of other goodies to excite. Eat here or take away, with ham and other cured meats cut to order or available vacuum packed.
Flores Jamones & Vinos
San Pablo 24
Centro/Arenal

Photos courtesy of Azahar Sevilla

Spanish Cold Soups

May 1, 2015March 26, 2019 WeLoveTapas

Light, cool and refreshing in the hot summer weather, gazpacho, the cold tomato soup of southern Spain, is nowadays well-known all over the world. It’s one of a family of tomato based cold soups that includes salmorejo and porra, as well as other local varieties, but the origins of these dishes actually goes back to before tomatoes and peppers came to Spain from the New World, and even before the other common Spanish cold soup ajoblanco, made with garlic and almonds (which came to Spain with the Moors).

gazpacho

In early mediaeval times the Spanish are known to have made a soup of water, dry bread, olive oil, garlic and vinegar, which probably went back to Roman times, as all of these were important elements of Roman cuisine. Leftover vegetables and, if you were lucky, meat or fish, were added to the mixture, which was mashed up to make a paste. In Moorish times peeled, blanched crushed almonds became a major ingredient, resulting in a thick, creamy white soup that was an early form of today’s ajoblanco, still strongly associated with the last of their strongholds in Granada and Malaga.

ajoblanco

Tomatoes (and peppers) began to appear in cold soups after these arrived from the Americas in the early 16^th century. Because Seville had the monopoly of the trade, and tomatoes thrived in the soil and climate of the Guadalquivir valley (Los Palacios tomatoes are almost legendary for their taste and size), these new tomato based soups first developed in this part of Andalucia, and were not well known or highly regarded elsewhere until the 19^th century.

salmorejo

The terms used for the different varieties depend on how thick the soup is, and the extra ingredients that are used, and are commonly associated with different localities. Gazpacho, from Seville, normally adds more vegetable ingredients, particularly cucumber, peppers and onions, but less bread and olive oil, which results in a thinner mix that is usually drunk rather than spooned. It’s often garnished with croutons and chopped cucumber and pepper.

Salmorejo, the Cordobes tomato soup has more olive oil and breadcrumbs than gazpacho, and is thicker and creamier. It’s often used as a sauce (one of my favourite tapas is a carpaccio of salt cod topped with salmorejo), and may have a wide range of extra ingredients, such as beetroot, melon and avocados. In Úbeda I even came across a variety for the gluten intolerant that replaced bread with green apples – and very tasty it was too. The traditional garnish is a quartered hard-boiled egg and chopped ham.

porra

Porra (literally “club”, and I’ve seen it translated that way on a menu) is from the central part of Andalucia around Antequera, and is probably named for the mortar and pestle used to grind up the ingredients. With more breadcrumbs and red and green peppers it’s the thickest of all. Tuna is a popular garnish.

Sevilla | Vamos a la Feria!

April 15, 2015March 26, 2019 WeLoveTapas

The Feria de Abril is Seville’s traditional spring fair and general celebration, and starts two weeks after Easter Monday (this year April 21 to 26), officially at midnight on Monday with the alumbrao, the switching on of the fairground lights, although in practice people may go to the fairground as early as the Saturday. Monday evening is traditionally the pescaito, the fried fish dinner. The fair runs until Sunday, and finishes with fireworks at midnight.

Originally founded in 1847 as a horse and cattle fair on the Prado San Sebastian, the feria has been held on a purpose built site in Los Remedios since 1973. The streets are lined with little stripy marquees (casetas) where you can eat and drink, and decked with lights and paper globes strung from poles. Fast food and candy stalls are much in evidence, and adjacent to the fairground is an area known as the Calle del Infierno, Hell Street, where you can find the funfair and attractions.

During the day the big draw is the parade of horses and carriages, all groomed and polished and spick and span, the men dressed in the traditional traje corto (short jacket, tight trousers and wide brimmed hat), the women in flouncy polka dot flamenco dresses. Later, many of the participants will head off to the bullring. Bullfighting is still popular in Seville, and the period around feria is the main bullfighting season. The bullfights are also an important social and business occasion, and everybody who’s anybody will be there.

From the evening onwards, though, it’s party time at the fairground. There’s lots of eating and drinking and dancing of Sevillanas, a local flamenco style folk dance. You should try rebujito, a mixture of fino sherry and 7Up, which is the fair’s traditional tipple, though it’s not everyone’s cup of tea, and fried fish, prawns and puchero (a meat stew) to ward off hangover. For those with the stamina the party goes on until dawn. Fortify yourself with chocolate and churros on your way home.

To get to the fairground you can take a taxi (which have special – higher – rates this week), one of the regular bus services 6 or C1/C2, or the special Feria bus service that runs from the Prado San Sebastian. It’s also possible to walk, especially if you’re in the southern part of the city.

Recipe | Asparagus Tortilla

March 1, 2015March 26, 2019 WeLoveTapas

We love cooking! And so we’ll be sharing some of our favourite recipes for our favourite Spanish dishes here from time to time. As it is almost spring we thought we’d start with a spring-veggie twist on a Spanish classic – the tortilla de patatas.

The important thing to know about making a great tortilla de patatas is that you should start with very good olive oil and not be afraid to use it. A traditional tortilla is simply potatoes and egg, but we wanted to give you a jump start on doing your own tortilla creations…

Ingredients

one bunch of fresh asparagus
one large or two medium (slightly waxy) potatoes, peeled and sliced
6 free range eggs
sliced roasted red peppers
1 small onion, finely diced
sea salt & freshly ground black pepper
olive oil (lots of it)

Steam the fresh asparagus until tender, then slice into 1 inch bits and set aside. Cut the onion in half lengthwise, then slice finely. Using a 22cm skillet, sauté the potato slices in an abundant amount of olive oil on medium heat, turning occasionally. Halfway through cooking add the onion slices and continue cooking until onions are transparent and the potatoes are cooked through and tender. Remove potatoes and onions to one side and add salt and pepper to taste. Drain olive oil to one side, keeping a bit to cook the tortilla.

Break the eggs into a large bowl and whisk them around until light and frothy. Slice up the roasted red peppers, and add them to the eggs with the cooled cooked asparagus, potatoes and onions. Mix well.

Heat up the same skillet you used to cook the onions and potatoes, adding a bit more olive oil if necessary. When the pan is well-heated pour in the egg mixture and immediately turn the heat down to med-low. Cook until the omelette is almost firm, shaking pan occasionally so it doesn’t stick. Slide omelette onto a plate, invert pan over top, and flip it back into the pan. Continue cooking until the tortilla is set. Place plate over pan, flip the tortilla one more time, and you’re done. Let cool before serving.

Postcards from Andalucía | Antequera

February 15, 2015March 26, 2019 WeLoveTapas

We love Andalucia! And to start off our series of “postcards” from our travels around the most southern region of Spain – where we live! – we’d like to introduce you to one of our favourite places, Antequera. Andalucía is justly famous for its great classical and mediaeval cities – Seville, Málaga, Cádiz, Córdoba and Granada – but its riches are by no means confined to these. Beauty, culture (and good food) can be found almost everywhere you look in this part of Spain, and we hope our postcard posts will encourage you to explore further afield, and perhaps enjoy some things that not everyone gets to experience.

Antequera, in the province of Málaga, is officially the centre of Andalucia, and has a plaque and small pillar in the Plaza San Sebastian to mark the spot. It’s easy to reach by train or car from Córdoba, Granada, Málaga or Sevilla, and as well as its picturesque small town charm it boasts a number of monuments that reflect its complex and fascinating history (including the Alcazaba fortress on a hill on the southern edge of town), and a number of unique attractions nearby.

Just outside the town, and easily visible from the Alcazaba Hill, is the strangely shaped mountain of Peña de Los Enamorados (Lovers’ Rock) A poem by Robert Southey reflects the story of two young lovers from rival Moorish clans who are said to have thrown themselves to their deaths from the top while being pursued by the girl’s father.

view of Antequera from the Alcazaba

A little way to the north are the burial mounds of Viera and Menga, which are more than 4,000 years old, and among the largest in Europe. Further afield, but worth considering if you’re here for more than a day trip, are the nature reserve of El Torcal, famous for its bizarre limestone rock formations, the gorge of Los Gaitanes and the King’s Way, and the Fuente La Piedra, a saltwater lagoon that is a major breeding place for the pink flamingo. Also worth a visit is the wolf sanctuary of Parque Lobo.

The Alcazaba was built by the Moors in the 13th century after the Christian kings conquered Cordoba, and finally fell to the future Ferdinand I of Aragon in 1410. It’s well worth a visit, with an excellent audio guide to the castle, and panoramic views of the town and surrounding countryside (look out for the golden angel on top of the San Sebastian church tower). Antequera is also famous for its large number of churches, convents and palaces (it’s sometimes called the city of churches), mostly built in the period of prosperity after the discovery of the New World, and an important museum which you can find in the Nájera Palace in the Coso Viejo.

But now let’s talk about what you’ve all been waiting for … the food! Antequera is the home of the mollete, a special type of soft bread bun, typically served for breakfast. Though the debate still rages about whether to toast the mollete before or after cutting it open (we agree with our friends @PolloyEnsalada that the latter is preferable).

breakfast mollete with olive oil, tomato and jamón serrano

Another thing we liked about breakfast in Antequera is that you can order their crispy and delicious version of churros by the ring…

two rings of churros please!

Porra, a thick cold tomato soup similar to salmorejo, is also an Antequera staple. There are a lot of good bars where you can sample this, and other local dishes, but be sure to pay a visit to Arte de Cozina, our favourite restaurant in the town, which specialises in old traditional, often forgotten, local recipes (chef Charo Carmona will even give you the recipes to take home with you). Opt for either the tapas bar or restaurant and enjoy some of the best traditional food in Andalucía.

three types of porra: tomato, blanca and orange

Have you visited Antequera? Did you love it as much as we do?

Tapas 101

January 1, 2015August 23, 2015 WeLoveTapas

What better way to start our new blog than to tell you something about what we love? We’re talking tapas, of course – those nifty little snacks that you buy to go along with your drink, and which can rapidly add up to a complete meal.

But what exactly is a tapa? What’s so special about them? And why are there so many tapas bars, and what should you expect when you go into one?

A tapa is, literally, a lid or a cover, and the name derives from the practice of landlords serving a piece of bread, ham or cheese to put over the drinks to keep out the dust and flies. This is rarely needed now, though if the bar you’re in is really crowded the top of your glass may still be the only place to put your plate!

But there’s more to tapas than just food, of course. In Andalucía tapas is part of the social culture, and it’s something that every visitor to Spain should experience, preferably in the form of a “tapeo”, which is going from bar to bar for drinks and tapas (one of the reasons there are so many of them).

Tapas are typically informal. Food is often shared between friends or family, and because the bars are often busy they may be eaten standing at the bar or at small tables, or even shelves or upturned barrels, and the atmosphere is noisy and convivial. The style of the different bars can be quite varied, but posters for those other Sevillano traditions, bullfighting, flamenco, Semana Santa (Holy Week) and Ferias are common. So too are the cured hams hanging from the rafters, picos (little breadsticks), and paper napkins seemingly specially designed not to absorb any spillages. Bars that are full of locals will usually be the best, but the only ways to be sure are trustworthy recommendation and trial and error.

Before ordering check whether tapas are available at the tables or outside (sometimes you have to order raciones – full size plates), or only at the bar. Once seated (or stooded, if you’re at the bar), don’t order everything at once – it may all come at once, get cold, or just be more than you need – just one or two tapas each to start, and more as you go. Expect to pay around €2-3 for a tapa, though it can go as high as €6, especially in “gastrobars”. The barman will usually keep a tab for you, which is paid at the end, but if you’re eating outside you may have to “pay as you go”. There aren’t any rules about tipping, but we generally leave 10%, or just some change if we’re at the bar.

Kitchens are generally open from around 1 pm to 4 pm, and again from 8 pm to midnight, though the bars may stay open during the afternoon for drinks, coffee and cold snacks. Many bars are also open for breakfast, serving mainly coffee and toast.

So don’t be shy, or intimidated by the noise and chatter. Just get stuck in.