spain | We Love Tapas

It’s all about the Pig

May 15, 2017January 14, 2019 WeLoveTapas

As anyone who has been to Spain will already know, when it comes to food the pig holds a special place of affection in the hearts of the Spanish (if you can excuse a rather mixed metaphor). No one knows exactly how long this love affair has been going on, but it’s thought that domesticated pigs were first brought to the peninsula by the Phoenicians nearly three thousand years ago, though the native Iberians had no doubt been hunting the native wild boar for many centuries before that. Although always popular, the centrality of the pig in Spain was cemented in the late Middle Ages as the Christians wrested control from the Moors and the Jews, and the consumption of pork became something of a symbol of the new Christian Spain.

At some point the boar and the domesticated pigs were crossbred, resulting in the Iberian peninsula’s very own special breed, the famous Iberian black-footed pig. They are raised mainly in the hill country of northwest Andalucia and Extramadura, on a specially maintained landscape called a dehesa, essentially grassland with groves of oak trees, and the pigs fatten by foraging on acorns (Spanish bellota). Although not numerically the majority of Spanish pigs, this is the breed which supplies the unique and highly prized Iberian pork and ham products.

Most prized of all, of course, is the wonderful jamon Iberico Bellota. The combination of breed, free-range diet and the curing process make this the treat not to be missed. Succulent and full of flavour, it is arguably the best ham in the world, and for the full Spanish effect it should be accompanied by a glass of chilled manzanilla or fino. You should also try caña de lomo, a cured Iberian pork loin with a subtly different taste and texture.

But it’s not all jamon. Traditionally, every part of the pig is used. Lean cuts such as presa or solomillo are normally grilled (solomillo is popular with a whisky sauce with lots of garlic and a hint of lemon that’s absolutely delicious). The slightly fattier pluma and secreto, as well as bacon, may be either grilled or fried. But it doesn’t stop there. Tender stewed pork cheeks (carrillada) seem to be one of Spain’s best kept culinary secrets. So too is morcilla, or blood sausage. The idea can be off-putting to some, but in fact it’s very tasty, and very versatile.

But when I say every part of the pig is used, I mean every part. From tripes (the secret’s in the sauce) to feet and from snout to tail, it’s all part of somebody’s favourite dish. I’ve tried pretty well all of them at one time or another, and haven’t found one that I don’t like. How many are you going to try while you’re here?

Tío Pepe en Rama 2016

April 15, 2016April 27, 2016 WeLoveTapas

This year’s Bodegas Gonzales Byass tasting event for Tío Pepe en Rama 2016 was held on April 11th (lunes del pescaíto), at the Mercado del Barranco on Seville’s riverside. Although we weren’t too lucky with the weather, with the wind even knocking over a few glasses, master blender (and winemaker poet) Antonio Flores led us on a metaphorical sailing trip down the Guadalquivir river, from Sevilla to Jerez. As we listened to his accounts we sampled the three different sherry wines: Tio Pepe en Rama (fino), Viña AB (amontillado) and Leonor (palo cortado). When you pour the wine, close your eyes, smell the wine and then drink, it shows once again that sherry is not just another white wine, but has a strong connection to the south of Spain, its sunshine, the smell of the sea and the silence inside the bodega. The magic is always there, even when it is raining and the wind is blowing. Catering for the event was supplied by various stalls inside Mercado del Barranco.

Tío Pepe en Rama 2016 was first selected in October from 100 of the best casks from two of the oldest Tío Pepe soleras, Rebollo and Constancia, and finally bottled (16,000 in total) in April from the top 60 out of those initial 100 casks.

A wild unfiltered wine, with all its yeast and organic contribution. Yellow, pale, golden tones, cloudy (yeast in suspension). The nose is pure albariza, salinity, nuts, bakery aromas. Tasty, intense, long, salty and slightly bitter finish. Or as Antonio would say… el sol de Andalucía embotellado (bottled Andalusian sunshine).

You can order Tío Pepe en Rama 2016 from the Gonzalez Byass online store or (in Sevilla) buy it at El Corte Inglés Gourmet Experience Duque.

Antonio Flores with Aldara

Callejeando Food Fest in Sevilla

December 8, 2015March 26, 2019 WeLoveTapas

What does foodie heaven look like? We bet it looks something like this…

It all happened this past weekend in Seville and of course we were there, eating and drinking non stop! There were 19 different food trucks from all over Spain with their delicious creations. To start we tried out our own local food truck, La Cayejera, which can usually be found under Triana bridge or at Torre Pelli.

The food truck concept was developed in USA but though the idea has been imported from the states, everything else is local, like this amazing Retinto beef with Payoyo cheese from Cadiz, the basic ingredients for the Brilla Bombilla hamburger.

In Spain we know all about meat, which is why Ox&Roll people were more than prepared to raise a very special one here: Wagyu. You may have heard about Kobe but this is the 100% real one, the genuine article guaranteed by Japanese organizations. They take great care of the animals and of the whole production process, and the result is the tastiest steak we have ever tried.

Culinary fusions are another important element in food trucks recipies, and Tabe Gozo is a perfect example. They were travelling around when came up with the idea of a basque-japanese mix for their project. They even make their own bread.

El Kiosko came with one of their three food trucks and created a special crispy chicken and nachos burger just for this event! BoKarte is its name and here you can learn how to make it: Bokarte de Pollo

These guys spent 15 hours driving to get here from Barcelona, but it was worth the ride because they surprised everybody with their chips nest, as you can see by the long line of hungry customers. La Internacional is an example of how passionate one must be to start this adventure and how successful it can be.

On a recent national TV show called Cocineros al Volante food trucks had to prove their value, and we have the winner here: Javier Brichetto. As you can imagine, we were already really full by then but he had created a burger good enough to be considered the best among so many others…so we had to try it!

Since nature gave us a separated stomach for dessert we could still enjoy Manu Jara’s surprising creations. He prepares cookies, truffles, cakes, and of course his signature choco-burger.

The event has been such a success that they are planning to do it every three months so we will keep an eye out for this Festival, in the hope that there will be more food trucks coming!

Sevilla | NO8DO

September 15, 2015March 26, 2019 WeLoveTapas

As an observant visitor to our fair city of Seville, you may have noticed, on such diverse objects as lampposts, manhole covers, buildings and garbage trucks, among others, a little motif that seems to read NO8DO, except that the 8 is somewhat large, and often appears as if a little blurred. You may guess from its locations that it is some sort of official logo (it’s actually the city motto), and you may even have wondered what it means. Allow me to explain.

The motif is what is technically known as a rebus (a riddle or puzzle made up of letters, pictures and/or symbols whose names sound like the parts or syllables of a word or phrase). The central 8 represents a skein of wool, in Spanish “madeja”, and yields a phrase that sounds like no-madeja-do, and approximates the Spanish phrase “no me ha dejado” (the h is silent so it’s pretty close), which means “It (Sevilla) has not abandoned me”.

So why is this phrase the motto of the city? Thought you’d never ask. It all goes back to the 13th century (as so much does in these parts), and to the reign of Alfonso X, who succeeded to the throne of Castile and Leon (the castle and lion that you see on the heraldic shield of the Spanish kings) on the death of Ferdinand III, who reconquered Seville from the Moors, in 1252. Known as the Wise, this was more for his intellectual accomplishments than his statecraft, and he was often at odds with his nobles. He had two sons, Ferdinand (the elder) and Sancho. The times were troubled and turbulent, and in the course of one of the intermittent wars with the Moorish kingdom of Granada, Ferdinand was killed at the Battle of Ecija (1275).

Now Ferdinand had two young sons, and in the normal course of things the line of succession would have passed through them, but taking advantage of the fact that they were still children, Sancho invoked a principle known as Agnatic Seniority (basically this meant that the succession should pass to the younger son of the King (ie Sancho), and not to the children of the deceased older son. Alfonso backed the claim of Ferdinand’s children, the nobles backed Sancho, and civil war ensued. Most of the country was soon under Sancho’s control, but Seville remained loyal to Alfonso (they did not abandon him), and were granted the motto as a reward. Alfonso died in 1284 with the succession issue not officially resolved, although it was Sancho who in fact gained the throne.

So now that you know the story you will no doubt see NO8DO everywhere you go. And now you will know why.

Sevilla | Abacerías

July 1, 2015March 26, 2019 WeLoveTapas

Updated: July 1, 2016

You may notice, or may have already noticed, as you make your way from bar to bar in search of tapas and a drink, that the word abacería (often antigua abacería) appears in some of the names in a way that suggests a particular meaning. But what meaning?

On closer inspection you may notice that as well as being bars, these abacerias are also small shops, selling a variety of foodstuffs, but especially delicatessen (hams and cheeses etc), beans, herbs and spices, and speciality items in tins and jars. In fact, these abacerías (and not all abacerías have the word in the name), were shops first, and shops with a bar later, although the presence of a bar is what distinguishes them from the other type of small grocer’s, the tienda de ultramarinos (literally shop of beyond the sea, originally specialising in products from the New World). The word abacería is Arabic, meaning something like “place of supplies”, and nowadays offer the opportunity to sample anything you’ve bought in the shop while still on the premises. By the mid 20th century abacerias had almost disappeared, but over the last few decades there has been a revival, and both “traditional” and “modern” versions are now very popular.

I love these little treasure troves of culinary delights, where you never know quite what you may find. There’s some nostalgia too; a lot of them have a look and atmosphere of little shops that I remember from my childhood, but transported to a different country and almost magically reinvented. These are some of my favourites, and well worth seeking out for that very special Sevilla experience.

Casa Moreno is one of my favourite places in Sevilla. A tiny shop in front with a little bar hidden away at the back serving mostly montaditos (toasted buns) with delicious meat and cheese fillings. Great atmosphere that’s old fashioned in just the right way.
Casa Moreno
Gamazo
7 Arenal

La Antigua Abaceria de San Lorenzo isn’t actually that antigua, though it certainly looks the part. Hidden away in a residential neighbourhood it’s obviously a locals bar, cosy and intimate with everybody on first name terms.
La Antigua Abacería de San Lorenzo
Teodosio 53
San Lorenzo

La Antigua Abaceria in Triana has something of the feel of a country pub, and is a great little place to stop for a beer and snacks. It’s recently been extended into a second premises next door, but still has the same friendly atmosphere.
La Antigua Abacería
Pureza 12
Triana

La Almadraba is part of a modernising trend at Seville’s oldest market in Calle Feria. As the name suggests it’s all about the tuna, with quality products from top brands such as Herpac. Don’t miss the mojama (cured tuna). Delicious.
La Almadraba
Feria Market

Salsamento is a brand new abacería in the revitalised Regina neighbourhood behind the Metropol Parasol that has succeeded in combining the traditional spirit of the abacería with a totally modern light and clean interior design. There’s a nice mix of cheeses and charcuterie with simple tapas and a nicely displayed range of speciality tinned goods.
Salsamento
Jerónimo Hernández 19
Centro / Regina

Flores Jamon y Vinos in Puerta Triana, is a modern, upmarket version of abaceria. Specialising in top quality jamon, but with plenty of other goodies to excite. Eat here or take away, with ham and other cured meats cut to order or available vacuum packed.
Flores Jamones & Vinos
San Pablo 24
Centro/Arenal

Photos courtesy of Azahar Sevilla

Spanish Cold Soups

May 1, 2015March 26, 2019 WeLoveTapas

Light, cool and refreshing in the hot summer weather, gazpacho, the cold tomato soup of southern Spain, is nowadays well-known all over the world. It’s one of a family of tomato based cold soups that includes salmorejo and porra, as well as other local varieties, but the origins of these dishes actually goes back to before tomatoes and peppers came to Spain from the New World, and even before the other common Spanish cold soup ajoblanco, made with garlic and almonds (which came to Spain with the Moors).

gazpacho

In early mediaeval times the Spanish are known to have made a soup of water, dry bread, olive oil, garlic and vinegar, which probably went back to Roman times, as all of these were important elements of Roman cuisine. Leftover vegetables and, if you were lucky, meat or fish, were added to the mixture, which was mashed up to make a paste. In Moorish times peeled, blanched crushed almonds became a major ingredient, resulting in a thick, creamy white soup that was an early form of today’s ajoblanco, still strongly associated with the last of their strongholds in Granada and Malaga.

ajoblanco

Tomatoes (and peppers) began to appear in cold soups after these arrived from the Americas in the early 16^th century. Because Seville had the monopoly of the trade, and tomatoes thrived in the soil and climate of the Guadalquivir valley (Los Palacios tomatoes are almost legendary for their taste and size), these new tomato based soups first developed in this part of Andalucia, and were not well known or highly regarded elsewhere until the 19^th century.

salmorejo

The terms used for the different varieties depend on how thick the soup is, and the extra ingredients that are used, and are commonly associated with different localities. Gazpacho, from Seville, normally adds more vegetable ingredients, particularly cucumber, peppers and onions, but less bread and olive oil, which results in a thinner mix that is usually drunk rather than spooned. It’s often garnished with croutons and chopped cucumber and pepper.

Salmorejo, the Cordobes tomato soup has more olive oil and breadcrumbs than gazpacho, and is thicker and creamier. It’s often used as a sauce (one of my favourite tapas is a carpaccio of salt cod topped with salmorejo), and may have a wide range of extra ingredients, such as beetroot, melon and avocados. In Úbeda I even came across a variety for the gluten intolerant that replaced bread with green apples – and very tasty it was too. The traditional garnish is a quartered hard-boiled egg and chopped ham.

porra

Porra (literally “club”, and I’ve seen it translated that way on a menu) is from the central part of Andalucia around Antequera, and is probably named for the mortar and pestle used to grind up the ingredients. With more breadcrumbs and red and green peppers it’s the thickest of all. Tuna is a popular garnish.

Sevilla | Vamos a la Feria!

April 15, 2015March 26, 2019 WeLoveTapas

The Feria de Abril is Seville’s traditional spring fair and general celebration, and starts two weeks after Easter Monday (this year April 21 to 26), officially at midnight on Monday with the alumbrao, the switching on of the fairground lights, although in practice people may go to the fairground as early as the Saturday. Monday evening is traditionally the pescaito, the fried fish dinner. The fair runs until Sunday, and finishes with fireworks at midnight.

Originally founded in 1847 as a horse and cattle fair on the Prado San Sebastian, the feria has been held on a purpose built site in Los Remedios since 1973. The streets are lined with little stripy marquees (casetas) where you can eat and drink, and decked with lights and paper globes strung from poles. Fast food and candy stalls are much in evidence, and adjacent to the fairground is an area known as the Calle del Infierno, Hell Street, where you can find the funfair and attractions.

During the day the big draw is the parade of horses and carriages, all groomed and polished and spick and span, the men dressed in the traditional traje corto (short jacket, tight trousers and wide brimmed hat), the women in flouncy polka dot flamenco dresses. Later, many of the participants will head off to the bullring. Bullfighting is still popular in Seville, and the period around feria is the main bullfighting season. The bullfights are also an important social and business occasion, and everybody who’s anybody will be there.

From the evening onwards, though, it’s party time at the fairground. There’s lots of eating and drinking and dancing of Sevillanas, a local flamenco style folk dance. You should try rebujito, a mixture of fino sherry and 7Up, which is the fair’s traditional tipple, though it’s not everyone’s cup of tea, and fried fish, prawns and puchero (a meat stew) to ward off hangover. For those with the stamina the party goes on until dawn. Fortify yourself with chocolate and churros on your way home.

To get to the fairground you can take a taxi (which have special – higher – rates this week), one of the regular bus services 6 or C1/C2, or the special Feria bus service that runs from the Prado San Sebastian. It’s also possible to walk, especially if you’re in the southern part of the city.