After coffee and toast, churros and chocolate is probably Seville’s most popular breakfast. Churros are made by squeezing dough through a nozzle, and deep frying it in a special round vat of hot oil. It’s a dish that’s common in Spain and Latin America, and comes in two basic types. In Seville, the fat round spiral known as “porra” or “masas” is the most typical, but there is also a thinner version with ridges called “papas” that are made from potatoes. Traditionally they are eaten for breakfast or mid-morning with a thick hot chocolate sauce for dunking (some people prefer coffee), but may also be served in the early evening for “merienda”. The high fat and carbs content makes them an excellent “hangover cure” and at weekends some churrerías (also known as calenterías) will open as early as 6am to take advantage of homeward bound revellers.
People often ask me where they can get good churros, so below is a list of some of our favourite churrerías in the centre of Sevilla. Do you know of any others that you’d like to recommend?
Churrería Alfalfa
The Churreria Alfalfa in Calle Guardarmino on the corner of Plaza Alfalfa has been run by Antonio and Inma Paz Tejada for more than thirty years.
Opening times 8.00am to 12.00 (except Mondays). Coffee and the family’s special recipe chocolate are only served at weekends, but you can take your churros to one of the nearby bars to have with a drink.
Calenteria Postigo
The same family have been making churros at this little stall next to the Postigo in Calle Arfe for six generations (150 years), with Angela & Manolo in charge of the porras and papas. Price 1.50 euros for a ración.
Opening times 7.00 to 12.30.
Take-away only, but you can sit down with your churros and order chocolate from Bar Los Niños a couple of doors up the street.
Calentería San Pablo
A friendly little take away tucked into the corner of San Pablo and Bailen, that has been selling churros every morning except Sundays since 1960. Churros are 1.20 euros, with chocolate 2.50 euros. Take-away only
Doña Carmen Cafeteria
Pleasant little family owned bar in Calle San Eloy in the town centre that is open for churros Mon to Sat 8.00 to 14.30 and 17.00 to 20.30, either to eat here or take away. Churros with coffee cost 2.30 euros, with chocolate 2.70 euros.
Bar El Comercio
Founded in 1904, and still owned by the same family, Bar El Comercio in Calle Lineros retains a traditional appearance and ambiance. Open all day (except Sundays) from 7.30 to 21.00 and serving churros morning and evening.
La Centuria
La Centuria, behind the Metropol Parasol in Plaza Encarnación, gets is name from the “Centurions” who accompany one of the Semana Santa processions, and who used to give a concert here on Jueves Santo before setting off. Churros are available morning and evening.
